"Is This the Lhasa I Knew 50 Years Ago?"

Anzhug and Soinam Puncog, members of a horse caravan shuttling between Lhasa and Deqen, a Tibetan autonomous prefecture in Yunnan Province, 50 years ago, used to complete a round trip in six months. They revisited their old haunt by plane recently -- just three hours for the return trip.

"It is unbelievable to travel over land and water in such a short time," said the two Tibetans, now in their 70s.

The caravan which Anzhug and Soinam were members of used to transport tea, brown sugar, copper and cloth to Tibet along a narrow path linking Yunnan and Tibet, and came back with wool, leather and musk from Tibet.

Anzhug's family had served as caravan members for five generations. He took over from his father at the age of 17.

"The journey was dangerous in those days," he recalled. ``We used to encounter bandits, floods and unexpected diseases.

"Lhasa was dirty and stinking at that time. The road leading to the Potala Palace and Johkang Monastery was full of beggars and prisoners in fetters. Some had had their eyes gouged out or had their hands cut off," Soinam Puncog said.

The two Tibetans strolled along Jiangsu Road, visited the Norpu Lingka Park and shopped at the Lhasa Department Store during their current visit.

"We can't believe that this is the Lhasa we visited 50 years ago, as it has changed so much," Anzhug said.``Also, there are more people chanting Buddhist scriptures around the Potala Palace these days."

His friend said, "It is a pity that we don't know how to find any of our old friends in Lhasa now, as the old houses have all been replaced with new ones."

(People's Daily 05/18/2001)


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