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Lakeside Designers Make a Splash

Famous for the scenic West Lake, Hangzhou is making a bid to become another fashion center in China. The city's top designers staged a unique catwalk show on the banks of the lake recently to set the wheels in motion.

The winding walkway at the Shangri-La Hotel in Hangzhou is considered an ideal spot for viewing of the picturesque West Lake. Earlier this month, however, the 100-meter-long walkway gave the term sightseeing a new meaning when it was turned into a catwalk showcasing Hangzhou's top 10 fashion designers.

About 150 guests, including more than 60 reporters from the fashion media, gathered for the "2002 Time Tunnel," billed as China's first big fashion event this year.

The unique catwalk offered the audience, seated along the edges of the walkway, the opportunity to be no more than 20 centimeters from the models.

"It's an exciting experience for us to be so close to the audiences," said leading model Lu Yi, winner of the China Elite Model Look contest in 1997, who was one of the 28 models from Beijing, Shanghai and Hangzhou at the show. "The proximity made showing the clothes easier and boosted communication," said Lu.

Song Meiying of Shanghai-based Yifei Modeling Agency, which provided 16 of the show's 28 models, called the event "vision art."

The models glittered, but the stars of the show were the 10 designers. While each had a distinct style, there were common elements running through the show.

Colors were divided into the lively, light spring-summer shades of pink, green, beige, cream, cherry red, lilac and smoky gray, and sober autumn-winter hues of black, white, brown and coffee.

The show highlighted the androgynous look. Handsome looks were created by uniform patterns and other trendy elements like hot pants, pockets and braces, the handling of the double-breasted jacket, big fur lapels or fur accessories like the leather bands encircling arms or legs adding some masculinity this year.

"Mixed green and yellow is traditionally the color for uniforms, but we've replaced it with black, dotted with red, gold or silver," said Li Lin, chief designer for JNBY, a popular brand known for its simplicity. "Our specially treated black fabric evokes the feeling of smoke and bombs in war. Perhaps it's our inner reaction to the present world."

Li, a former chemistry major, is also an advocate for environmentally-friendly fashion, using natural fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and cashmere.

Tang brand's designer Chen Yinchu, 28, showed a collection that was totally modern and feminine, with emphasis on the bias cut and oversized floral patterns. Targeted at the overseas market, his designs, often in red hues and silk, fit close to the body.

Chen's clothing is resolutely Western. Admitting that he selected a "very Chinese brand name to attract the attention of foreigners," Chen does not feel that Chinese design elements will attract buyers. "But I believe that the day will come when China is strong enough to be a fashion leader," he said.

That wish is shared by all the designers at the "2002 Time Tunnel," said Guo Qingye, director of the Hangzhou Designer Development Guidance Group, the event organizer. "This is just a beginning. Our goal is to strive to make Hangzhou one of China's fashion capitals."

(Eastday.com February 27, 2002)

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