Named for the two fine old trees growing through the roof of the main dining room, Sichuan restaurant Spring Trees is a refuge from its car park surroundings.

The pleasant courtyard-inspired interior is rustic chic, the service is excellent and the prices won’t break the bank, but the offerings are inconsistent. Starting with the classic “mouth-watering chicken” (RMB 19), we found it to be surprisingly bland even though it was swimming in peppers and oil. However, the recommended fresh haddock with green and red peppers (RMB 59 per jin) more than made up for it.

It was so intensely infused with Sichuan peppercorns that our lips were numbed into submission. The tasty stir-fried bean leaves (RMB 25) were a welcome respite from the spice, but the julienne potatoes in vinegar (RMB 9) that followed were cloying. While the food doesn’t shine as much as the decor, we’ll stick to server recommendations next time.

Spring Trees Restaurant

Daily 10.30am-10.30pm.

18 Cheniandian Hutong, Dongcheng District

6406 9521

(thatsbj.com March 18, 2008)